Comments (17)

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Feb 07, 2021rclane rated this title 3.5 out of 5 stars
After reading The Interrogation by Le Clezio, I looked forward to the straightforward narrative of Barbarian Days. I don't really give two bits about surfing. Nonetheless the clarity of writing about a topic that could have easily been…
Aug 22, 2019Mooseum rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
Throughout my life, having lived near the coast, I've known more than a handful of surfers. Not until I moved to Portland, did I meet someone who explained his love of surfing in terms of what he saw and felt in the water. William…
Mar 18, 2019swheeler89 rated this title 5 out of 5 stars
This one took me a little while to get thru, but the reward was worth it. Read past the first 50 pages, and then enjoy the ride around the world this memoir will take you on.
Mar 30, 2018DBRL_Jeremiah rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
I love Finnegan's work for The New Yorker, and I had read a couple of his pieces on surfing in that magazine—but I didn't expect to enjoy this book as much as I did. I don't surf, never have, and likely never will, but Finnegan's…
Nov 17, 2017
Finnegan not only has a life time's experience to tell of chasing waves but also the analytical rigour of an excellent writer to embellish his story with retrospection and introspection. His love of surfing approaches an art form in its…
Aug 16, 2017otaycec rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
Clearly the best surfing odyssey written to date. Finnegan is a very fine writer, and a well-read writer. There are some highly educated surfers around the world, and I am heartened that someone with a literary cast of mind finally decided…
Jul 01, 2017tw444 rated this title 3.5 out of 5 stars
If you're not a surfer, may be a bit too technical. Lots of wave talk.
Jun 06, 2017jezicuhh rated this title 3 out of 5 stars
I couldn't get into it... I really tried, got all the way to chapter six. I think the author has so much to share about his experiences that it got lost in translation a bit. I am also going to agree with the comment below, and say this is…
Mar 26, 2017njon38 rated this title 3 out of 5 stars
Won the Pulitzer, a memoir of an obsessive surfer who traveled the world looking for that perfect wave. He is about my age so following the political landscape of his life was interesting but this is really a man's book.
Nov 10, 2016tongatim rated this title 2.5 out of 5 stars
Interesting and well-written account of the life of a die-hard surfer. Having lived and surfed in the same era, there was much to relate to, and much more of interest to those of us who veered away from the surfing life as we took more…
Nov 02, 2016danielestes rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
Let me first say that you don't need an inkling of interest in or knowledge of surfing to love this book. Bill Finnegan covers the basics for all the novices out there. For example, there's a terrific little aside early on where he…
Aug 31, 2016manao rated this title 4.5 out of 5 stars
Long but well-written, informative, autobiographical story of global adventure travel and a detailed investigation into the obsessive fascination of surfing. Replete with the ring of truth.
Aug 12, 2016
Obama's reading list
Jul 31, 2016zukedgwa rated this title 5 out of 5 stars
Well written, engaging narrative if you are interested in adventure, surfing, or great life stories.
Jul 14, 2016jannylegs rated this title 4 out of 5 stars
Fascinating and meaningful. Mixed enough of the personal with amazing travelogue and surf descriptions to keep me going for all 447 pages. Grateful that the author survived all of his somewhat harrowing adventures to write this memoir.
May 03, 2016randomsumm3r rated this title 5 out of 5 stars
Exquisite, eloquent writing about not only what it feels like to surf but also about nature, growing up in the 20th century, geopolitics and friendship. I wasn't surprised to learn that this book earned a Pulitzer. I think anyone who…
Apr 20, 2016MrsIredale rated this title 4 out of 5 stars
A great memoir for those who love adventure or surfing.